The Right Way to See the West!

By Len Nelson, Off-Road Editor, Motorcycle Online

          There is a man who lives in the heart of the West that will help you organize such a trip. No kidding! All you have to do is tell him what type of ride you’d like to do and for how long and he’ll plan the route, arrange for accommodations, and if he thinks you’re on the level he may even share with you one of his secret fishing holes. If you’re worried about how to get your ride from your garage to the west, don’t be. He’s already got one set up for you—a Suzuki DR350 equipped with a few aftermarket goodies to make your ride more enjoyable.        

          This summer we got the opportunity to tag along with Nevada’s foremost off-road guide as he scouted some of the thousands of acres that make up his back yard. Come spend a few days with us as we explore some of the best off-road riding the West has to offer!

           Matt Ernst is a mid-Atlantic native; he moved to Nevada in the mid 1970s where he worked in a gold mine. Before long, the lure and charm of the Nevada outback consumed his time and thoughts - casual rides turned into week-long excursions. Matt recognized the need for a tour guide in this rough country, so with his local knowledge, he created Nevada Motorcycle Adventures. Along with playing businessman, Matt doubles as driver, tour guide, Emergency Medical Technician, socialite, mechanic, historian, cook and environmentalist among other things. He’s also a heck of a nice guy.

          Matt turned 40 years old just the day before we set out to ride. While his maturity is evident in the way he runs his business, don’t be fooled—he knows how to have a good time and will do his very best ensure that you do too. Matt’s business is headquartered in his home. Upon entering, it becomes immediately apparent that he’s serious about what he does. Oversize maps blanket every wall; lines drawn in colored ink trace routes from his past trips. Points of interest are marked by push-pins with brightly colored heads. A 300,000 mile award from BMW hangs on the wall. Riding gear, medical kits, radios and tool pouches are neatly stacked on shelves in readiness for hasty departures.

          Traveling just an hour out of Reno you begin to feel the remoteness take hold. Nevada’s wide open basins offer a sense of freedom you’ll never find in any city or town. If you’re agoraphobic, bring your medicine or better yet stay home. For the rest of us the catharsis starts here; all thoughts of home and unfinished business lose their importance. You can put your watch away - you’ve got no place to be and plenty of time to get there. You understand why you came here once you start paying attention to the beauty that surrounds you.

          Before long, we’re standing at the base of a mountain range ready to ride. A two-track trail sneaks off into the hills. Snowcapped peaks paint the background and an ornate palette of trickling water, sagebrush, unusual rock formations, and a scattering of logs dried by the sun are in plain view. A childlike enthusiasm takes hold and we can’t wait to get going.

          If you’re thinking a Suzuki’s DR350 is just a little too wimpy for an outback adventure like this, think again. Amenities such as an electric start are worth their weight in beef jerky; no one wants to spend their afternoon trying to make peace with a flooded 4-stroke that won’t start. The bikes are stock except for Acerbis headlights, taillights, extra-capacity gas tanks, rally hand guards, fork protectors, and frame gaurds. Other modifications include aluminum handlebars, custom, heavy duty skidplates, rotor gaurds, caliper gaurds, chain guards and gearing. (See sponsor list for more, updates)       

          Once you pilot the Suzuki thumper through the thick and thin of Nevada, even for just a few hours, you can’t help but acknowledge that it’s perfectly suited for this application. A twist of the throttle brings the smooth motor to a rumbling growl. Power delivery is smooth and predictable. Sitting on the bike is like settling into the cockpit of a tank. You feel confident rolling across the high desert floor, as if no harm can come to you.

          A particularly brutal winter has managed to cause accessibility problems with many trails this year. Warm days often result in raging streams and flooding as the snow from nearby mountain peaks melts away. Although it’s the middle of June a few trails are still covered with impassable snow drifts! Our first day is a light one as far as riding is concerned. We spend time getting accustomed to the terrain and the bikes; no one wants to start their week off with an injury. Besides, the views are so spectacular you’ll need time to stop and breathe it all in. Riding out here can be dangerous, not because of the difficulty of the trails, but because you have to fight the urge to gape at the breath-taking scenery.

          Today we make several stream crossings through forests of Cottonwoods and Aspens. The rich dark soil, roots and tree shade act as a reminder of what it’s like to ride back in the Northeast - not at all what we expected.

          After riding for a while we make a side-trip to a rustic mining town for some refreshments. Settled in 1862, the town was once home to a thriving mining industry with 11 mills operating simultaneously. While mining isn’t dead, business has slowed down. Some of the town’s old buildings have begun to show signs of decay, adding to the charm of this rustic gem. Some say the town we were in is on its way to becoming a ghost town, but a steady flow of visitors is keeping the town alive. We wouldn’t miss stopping in at the town’s only cafe if we came back. The food is good and the conversation is even better.

          While fine accommodations can be had in many towns, we opted for some fresh air our first night. We made camp next to one of the many secluded hot-springs that are scattered throughout the area. Hot water, rich in sulfur, rises from the depths of the earth. Steam caused by the cool night air is playfully whisked away by gentle breezes. A makeshift pool has been constructed by someone who took the time to dig a large hole in the ground. The temperature of the pool can be regulated by placing or removing rocks from a trough leading from the bubbling source.

          As one of the most picturesque sunsets you could imagine disappears over one horizon, a full moon beams brightly from the other. We start a fire with some dead sagebrush. When burned, dried sage releases such a fine smoke that you can almost breath it without discomfort. Food cooked over the flames takes on the flavor, making even the beans taste extraordinary. The temperature quickly drops making the comfort of a sleeping bag seem more like a bed at a four-star hotel. The dwindling fire pops and crackles a few last breaths. 

          The next morning, Matt cooks up some breakfast and coffee. Today we explore a cave containing Petroglyphs - drawings that date back to 1000 B.C. carved in stone by Native Americans. Traveling further away from civilization we stop to take pictures of an abandoned ranch.  

          After a busy morning, I was content to just casually roll across the landscape that afternoon. We spend another evening camping out next to a different, yet equally magnificent, hot spring. As I soak for a few hours, exhausted from a long day, I can almost hear the sounds of horse’s hooves cantering across the land, Indians howling, dogs barking, cattle ranches. Several days of listening to Matt’s historical narratives left colorful images of what it must have been like to live back then.

          The next couple of days are spent riding the varied terrain, rising then falling, the temperature changing with the hour and altitude. A nice thing about the Suzuki dual-sport is their fairly quiet exhaust note; several times we were able to sneak up on wild horses grazing. We pass several abandoned gold and silver mines. The gold fever of the past is still alive and kicking in Nevada.

          Getting lost is easy out here. Once you get into the mountains there are virtually no signs, people or places to fuel up - you’re on your own. Jeep trails criss-cross one another - some leading to dead ends, others into sand washes. Cactus and wildflowers of red, white and pink grow haphazardly along the trail. At the higher elevations we ride, pine trees are prolific.

         The lowlands consist of long two-track roads with occasional whoop-dee-do sections that meander through and around cattle ranches. Most ranchers are cool about letting people cross their property providing the privilege isn’t abused. Don’t litter, scare the cattle, or leave the gates open. Matt makes every effort to get to know these friendly folks. Besides being good PR, you never know if the owner of the property you’re on may have had a bad experience with bikers in the past; there’s no sense in getting shot at by a fed-up rancher with a “talking iron.”

          Hidden in the brush we see skeletons of livestock. At one time an angry Brahman bull begins to grunt at us; he roughs up the ground with his hoof and others join him. We high-tail it out of the area not wanting to learn their plans for us. As we were riding, we came upon a large crater, home to a bubbling pool of hot water. Fortunately, the Suzukis have good brakes!

          If you’ve been interested in doing a trip like this, but want to attempt it on your own, think carefully for one moment. Is it really worth it? As we see it, Matt is the only sensible alternative to exploring Nevada’s country. Not only will he take you directly to cool points of interest and the best places to go riding, but he has respect for the land, people and culture. Matt has a stake in this area of the country. In a way, he’s one of the many caretakers of the land, he wants to preserve it, show people how beautiful it is and how it should be respected. Matt’s DR’s proved reliable, torquey, comfortable, fun, and easy to ride. They’re quiet and adequately powerful, yet the rear tire won’t shred everything that crosses its path. They don’t spew clouds of blue exhaust or burn excessive amounts of fuel. The DR is environmentally friendly in every way - just the kind of bike riders need to keep public lands open.

          Before leaving for home we spent our final day participating in the Deux Gros Nez Festival (pronounced Doo-gro-nay, French for two big noses) which features food, drinks, music, belly dancing, antique bikes and climaxes with a bicycle race around the city. All in all, there is just way too much stuff to see in one week. Looks like we’ll have to come back again next year!

          Give Matt a ring! If your riding buddies can’t seem to get their act together - don’t lose hope - simply ask to be included with another group. Either way you are bound to have a fantastic experience along with plenty of stories to tell when you get home. Get off your duff and do it - you’re not getting any younger!